Why We Use Spices (G)
For centuries spices have been important in food preparation throughout the world. However, patterns of spice use differ considerably among cultures. This lecture will introduce the new field of Darwinian gastronomy, and address two specific questions, namely (1) what factors underlie cultural differences in spice use?, and (2) why are spices used at all?
To investigate these issues, I quantified the frequency of use of all spices (n=43) in the meat-based recipes (4,578) of all countries (36) for which traditional cookbooks (93) could be located. I also compiled information on climatic variables, ranges of spice plants, and their antimicrobial properties. These data were used to investigate several alternative hypotheses, including that spices disguise the taste and smell of spoiled foods, increase perspiration and evaporative cooling, provide micronutrients, or eliminate foodborne microorganisms.
In support of the latter hypothesis, secondary compounds in all spice plants inhibit or kill foodborne bacteria, some very effectively. Within and among countries, proportions of recipes containing spices, numbers of spices per recipe, total spices used, and use of the most potent antibacterial spices all increase with increasing mean annual temperatures (an indicator of relative spoilage rates of unrefrigerated foods).
A corollary of the antimicrobial hypothesis is that, within cuisines, vegetable dishes should be less spicy than meat dishes, because cells of dead plants are better protected physically and chemically against bacterial and fungal invasions than cells of dead animals, whose immune system ceased functioning at death. As predicted, among countries, vegetable dishes called for fewer spices/recipe than meat dishes, and 38 of 41 individual spices were used less frequently in vegetable recipes. Proportions of recipes calling for >1 spice, and >1 extremely potent antimicrobial spice also are lower for vegetable than meat dishes in most countries.
Although the proximate (immediate cause) reason spices are used obviously is to enhance food palatability, the ultimate (long-term) reason most likely is to cleanse foods of bacteria and fungi. Prior to widespread availability of refrigeration and artificial food preservation, spices probably enhanced the health, longevity, and reproductive success of people who found their flavors enjoyable. This, in turn, explains why spices taste good to their descendants.
Protecting Ourselves from Food. (S)
Most of us will eat more than 75,000 meals in our lifetimes. And, for many, eating is the most dangerous thing we do, because ingesting bits and pieces of the outside world provides a free pass to the bloodstream for whatever lurks in the foodstuffs. Foodborne pathogens, especially in "leftovers," have been problematic ever since early hominids began killing game that was too large to consume immediately. This lecture will take a Darwinian approach and discuss two mechanisms, one cultural and one physiological, that serve to protect us from what we eat.
The cultural mechanism involves cooking with spices. Usually spices are considered solely as flavorings, but they also have antimicrobial properties deriving from secondary compounds that evolved in the plants as protection against their own biotic enemies. Humans use these natural pharmaceuticals to help cleanse food of pathogens and retard food spoilage. Spice use is more prominent in traditional cuisines from hot than cool climates, and more prominent in meat than vegetable dishes (the former are more conducive to bacterial growth). Prior to widespread refrigeration and artificial food preservation, spice use probably enhanced the health, longevity, and reproductive success of people who found their flavors enjoyable.
However, the very chemicals that inhibit foodborne pathogens can have negative side-effects as carcinogens, teratogens, and abortifacients. These dangers are particularly relevant for pregnant women. How can they protect themselves and their delicate embryos from the dangers of foodborne illnesses, on the one hand, and from naturally-occurring plant toxins on the other? The answer is the intricate physiological mechanism known as "morning sickness."
Food aversions during the first trimester (when embryogenesis is most sensitive to disruption), reinforced by nausea and vomiting, focus primarily on meats and strong-tasting vegetables (i.e., the most "dangerous" foodstuffs in our evolutionary past). Miscarriages and fetal deaths are less likely to occur to women who experience morning sickness than those who do not, and the greater the symptoms the better the pregnancy outcome. Traditional societies with no evidence of morning sickness rarely eat meat or strong-tasting plants, instead consuming mainly corn. Morning "sickness" apparently is a misnomer - rather it is a prophylactic mechanism the provides wellness insurance.